I don’t expect the car that arrives and I don’t expect the man who drives it. The car is a gold Subaru; I think four-wheel drive. I notice the man because he is white and there are few white faces in Soweto, especially during the late afternoon. It is only later that I see Gogo Kaye and melt out of the shadows and go to her door.

The man gets out. He is tall and muscular and walks as if he is afraid of nothing. His hair is cut short like a soldier’s but grey. He walks around the c...