Shamed by our lazy lakeside day, we resolved to spend the next exploring. After a leisurely breakfast we were thinking of moving when a regular beat from downriver resolved into the high-pitched overhead whoosh of swans in flight. The pair landed neatly on our lake and floated serenely as their lofty gaze swept every ripple and verge.

Storm said, “That’s all the view needed to make it perfect.”

“Do you think they’ll be here when we get back?”

“Y...